【Event Report】KOJI THE KITCHEN Academy vol. 6 was held!

by 糀屋三左衛門株式会社 Mar 24, 2026

On February 21, 2026, "KOJI THE KITCHEN Academy vol.6" was held. A total of approximately 100 participants, including brewers and food manufacturers from all over Japan, attended both in-person and online. Lively discussions were exchanged among 11 leading figures at the forefront of the industry.

The theme this time was "Koji x Gastronomy." We attempted to redefine gastronomy not merely as fine dining, but as an integration of fermentation food production with culture, technology, and society, aiming to reshape it into a sustainable industry.

This report covers the dense, approximately six-hour content, packed with insights into connecting Japan's food culture to the future.

Click here for the archive video

Opening Talk

The opening kicked off with a talk session featuring fermentation designer Hiraku Ogura, Tabemono Radio's Muto, and Sanzaemon Murai, the 29th head of Kojiya Sanzaemon. The lively exchange invigorated the venue from the start.

Attendees were particularly interested in the unique perspective that defines the fermentation culture of each region as a "design" created by the people living there. This marked the beginning of an academy that not only served as a seminar but also a collaborative exploration of the ideal form of food culture.

Kojinomy & Seed Koji Introduction Lecture

Murai presented a foundational lecture on seed koji and koji, proposing a new concept, "Kojinomy," which redefines koji as a multidisciplinary system of knowledge.

The audience was particularly interested in the history of koji, which, rather than being a mere natural phenomenon, has been supported by advanced industrial technology since the Muromachi period. Everyone nodded earnestly at the precise design philosophy of what could be called the world's oldest bio-industry.

Furthermore, attention was drawn to the importance of "regions" as centers of food production. We are currently facing a serious crisis where everyday miso and soy sauce might disappear from supermarkets within 10 to 20 years. To solve this, it is essential to have a perspective that protects the industry not just through individual producers, but through the entire region, including the environment and communities. It is crucial to redefine fermentation within the context of the food manufacturing industry from Higashi-Mikawa, a region boasting one of the highest food shipment values in Japan, to connect the "people" who sustain the industry to the next generation. This session aimed to deepen discussions on this topic throughout the day, creating anticipation for the subsequent sessions.

Mini Lecture: "What is Gastronomy?"

This was a mini-lecture by Ms. Yukako Saito, co-representative of JIEN LLP, on considering fermented food production from the perspective of "gastronomy."

Saito proposed the concept of "Farm to Factory to Table," which overturns conventional wisdom. While we often directly connect "agriculture (primary industry)" and "the dining table," she emphasized that "in between, there is always the crucial food manufacturing industry acting as a driver to create food." The sight of participants diligently taking notes on each of Saito's words was particularly striking.

"The power of the 'manufacturing industry' is indispensable for stabilizing food quality and designing food as culture. Manufacturers should not be anonymous behind-the-scenes players, but rather artists who articulate their techniques and philosophy," Saito asserted, engaging in a lively discussion with Murai.

Following this lecture, a shared understanding emerged in the venue: "Those who stand on the manufacturing floor are the drivers of food culture." Beyond merely sharing knowledge, all participants were now prepared to view the subsequent sessions as "their own business."

Fermentation as Design

In this session, fermentation was re-examined not as a natural phenomenon, but as a design process shaped by the maker's intent. Naoya Miyase of Sekiya Brewery Co., Ltd. shared his concept of sake brewing as "playing with puzzles... By changing the size, shape, and arrangement of the puzzle pieces, a different sake can be created," demonstrating a free and sophisticated design philosophy.

The audience was particularly excited by an anecdote about elevating a customer's life journey into a bottle of sake. Attendees expressed admiration for the creativity of combining rice and water from various regions like puzzle pieces to embody personal narratives as "taste."

Fermentation transcends mere food production; it is an artistic endeavor that shapes customers' emotional values and desires with precise techniques. Miyase touched on the differences between sake and wine production, saying, "Sometimes I envy the culture of wine where flavor changes are tolerated, but the complexity of parallel multiple fermentation is what makes it difficult and keeps it interesting." He passionately spoke about the fascinating aspects that arise from human intervention, offering bright hope for the potential of humans to design fermentation.

Farm to Factory to Table - Connecting "Food" and "Agriculture" with "Manufacturing"

Here, the respective roles of large companies supporting stable food supply and small- and medium-sized enterprises fostering diversity were discussed. What was particularly striking was the statement by Soy Sauce Sommelière Keiko Kuroshima: "Even the largest soy sauce manufacturers meticulously adjust their products each time to ensure consistent quality." Fermentation is not left to chance; it is a precise design process driven by the maker's intent. The fact that major brands of soy sauce are highly rated in blind tests overturned the preconception that "major brands are bland."

Furthermore, an anecdote from the Wooden Vat Summit held in Shodoshima was shared. When an employee from Kikkoman participated, the atmosphere in the venue shifted from mere interest to familiarity and respect the moment the producers' "faces" became visible. This event symbolizes how the visualization of "who is making it" plays a crucial role in conveying the high technical capabilities and value of large corporations.

Makoto Hiramatsu of the Aichi Miso and Tamari Soy Sauce Industrial Cooperative Association encouraged small and medium-sized breweries by stating that "high quality control can be implemented regardless of scale." Yuto Saito, representative of MISOVATION Inc., discussed efforts to maintain diversity through "creating new markets" using online platforms. It was also shared that "the trustworthiness of seeing the maker's face" is crucial for future survival strategies.

What emerged from these discussions was the importance of making the faces and philosophies of those on the ground visible, regardless of scale. When high technical capabilities and the human endeavors behind them are communicated, products transform from mere "things" into "values with a reason to be chosen," leading to trust and empathy—such a future vision was presented.

Fermentation as Invisible Infrastructure - The Cycle of Dashi and the Invisible Production Site

This session highlighted the "human resources" crisis occurring in katsuobushi production, such as labor shortages, skill transfer issues, and the current reliance on foreign workers. Maiko Otsuka, President of Taikou Co., Ltd., discussed the challenges on the production floor, stating, "Despite demand, the reasons producers are not increasing include a shortage of skilled workers, barriers to equipment investment, a negative image of the fisheries industry, and the non-disclosure of production sites."

Instead of hiding the harsh working conditions out of shame, it is crucial to accurately convey these realities, including their negative aspects, to society and share them. This could be the first step for consumers to recognize the value of "invisible design" and support the "people" who sustain the industry. The mold cultivation and drying of katsuobushi are also highly skilled artisanal techniques. To preserve these techniques, it was concluded that it is important to openly share the current situation and a sense of crisis.

Factory as Social Terroir

In this session on "social terroir," Kazunori Nishi, President of Sanwa Shurui Co., Ltd., spoke about the company's deep involvement in the local community through initiatives like "Mugi no Gakko" (Barley School), which connects the culture of Usa, Oita Prefecture. He emphasized that not only the origin of raw materials but also the company's activities themselves form a strong brand.

Kenji Nomura, Planning Office Manager and Quality Control Manager at Hatcho Miso (Kakukyu) Goshi Kaisha, revealed that their raw soybeans have been sourced from all over Japan since the Meiji era, indicating they are not limited to local ingredients. Instead, he argued that adherence to "unique manufacturing methods" such as using only soybeans and salt, stacking large stones on wooden vats, natural brewing, and production within the old Hatcho Village area, is what shapes the character of the region.

Yukako Saito also presented international examples, noting that in Italy, "food education" focused on fostering social terroir is emphasized. Unlike Japan's food education, which centers on nutrition and morality, Italian food education actively teaches children manufacturing techniques themselves.

Regionality is formed not only by the soil itself but also by the wisdom and will of the manufacturing sites passed down through generations in that land. The audience listened intently to the words of leaders who are preserving traditions in a contemporary context, which was very impressive.

Saito concluded by stating, "How many such open discussion forums Japan can hold will be key to nurturing social terroir," emphasizing that building human relationships through dialogue is the essence of gastronomy.

Discussion ~ Closing

"Murai has a strong Ieyasu presence." The closing session began with Ogura's unique analysis that the character of the Higashi-Mikawa region "inherits the daimyo mindset of Tokugawa Ieyasu." He and Muto discussed the unique perspective that a historical figure from several centuries ago still influences modern craftsmanship as the region's "OS."

Ogura stated, "What we make has been made by our ancestors for generations. 'I am the [x]th generation' is Japan's greatest value (from an overseas perspective)." He explained that the long history and accumulated techniques embodied in "people" transcend individual achievements, representing a strength that Japanese manufacturing should be proud of globally. Sharing a positive recognition that those involved in production and consumption are part of history, the six-hour symposium concluded.

Koji x Higashi-Mikawa Gastronomy Dinner

The culmination of the learning experience was the "Koji x Higashi-Mikawa Gastronomy Dinner," supervised by Chef Takehiro Imasato of Hotel Arc Riche Toyohashi. Participants experienced the ideal form of fermentation and the food manufacturing industry that they had contemplated throughout the day, in the form of cuisine. Everyone couldn't stop eating the numerous dishes that blended Higashi-Mikawa's rich ingredients with fermentation. Conversations among the participants were endless, allowing them to fully enjoy "gastronomy" with all five senses.

Beyond "Buying is Supporting."

Throughout the day, I was deeply impressed by the repeated message from the speakers: "Buying is supporting, and it's a vote for the future." However, I feel that currently, support tends to be focused only on a select few symbolic producers whose "faces are visible."

The future of Japan's dining tables is undoubtedly protected by the nameless "people" who diligently work in factories. Therefore, shouldn't we consciously seek out the "invisible producers" and shouldn't the makers proudly showcase their passion on the ground to society?