On February 22, 2026, we held the "San-En Gastronomy Tour," which took place in the "San-En Area" stretching from Higashi-Mikawa in Aichi Prefecture to Enshu in Shizuoka Prefecture!

This tour was not merely sightseeing, but an attempt to delve deeply into the local food culture from both "Factory" (manufacturing) and "Farm" (agriculture) perspectives. Hiraku Ogura (Fermentation Designer), Taro Muto (Tabemono Radio), and Sanzaemon Murai, the head of our own Kojiya Sanzaemon, accompanied the entire tour as attendants. Inside the vehicle, a special edition of "Tabemono Radio" was broadcast in real-time. The continuous, expert insights and cross-talk from the three attendants during transit created a luxurious learning environment, filled with a "chemical reaction of knowledge" that uncovered the multifaceted charm of each stop.

　

Visit ① Kojiya Sanzaemon (Toyohashi City)

The tour began at the sanctuary of seed koji, which we have protected for generations. Led by the 29th head, Sanzaemon Murai, we shared a moment to touch upon the profound depths of "seed koji" (koji mold), which underlies Japanese food culture.

Since our establishment in the Muromachi period, Kojiya Sanzaemon has consistently supplied stable, high-quality seed koji to brewing manufacturers specializing in miso, soy sauce, shochu, sake, and more. Our unwavering commitment to maintaining the quality cultivated over many years is a testament to the Japanese aesthetic that seeks perfect harmony even in a single drop of seasoning, a principle that has remained unchanged since our founding.

In a laboratory usually closed to the public, participants tried their hand at making "cotton plugs" to seal test tubes. Even in this seemingly simple finger movement, skilled techniques that are not easily imitated were required. This provided an opportunity to experience firsthand the strictness of protecting seed koji for over 600 years and the preciousness of craftsmanship.

The Japanese brewing industry, pursuing the ideals and specificities of each manufacturer, such as "depth of aging" and "freshness without oxidation," relies on the precise control of seed koji producers, who manage the invisible movements of koji down to the millimeter. It was a moment where participants could truly feel the hundreds of years condensed within a single grain of seed.

Visit ② Yamasa Chikuwa (Toyokawa City)

Next, we visited "Yamasa Chikuwa," a company that, like Kojiya Sanzaemon, is rooted in Toyohashi City, Aichi Prefecture, and has jointly led the local food culture. Since its establishment in 1827, Yamasa Chikuwa has maintained its tradition for approximately 200 years. As someone who inherited a family business in the same city, Murai, the current head, has always held deep respect for them and confidently introduced it as an indispensable "recommended spot" when discussing San-En cuisine.

Murai's recommendation stems from the idea that "fish don't just suddenly become chikuwa; there are people at chikuwa manufacturers who process fish as a food production industry, and there is technology embodied within it. I want people to feel the presence of these people and their technology, and how amazing it is to consistently produce delicious chikuwa as a matter of course."

Mr. Taisuke Kurano, Senior Managing Director of Yamasa Chikuwa, explained the history of chikuwa. Everyone was surprised to learn that the unique appearance of their chikuwa, with a grilled mark only in the middle and white ends, which is now standard in the industry, was originally devised as a distinctive mark of their company. The skillful hand movements of the craftsmen deftly wrapping the fish paste are a level of expertise that cannot be easily imitated. It was a time to feel firsthand the pride embodied in each swing of their hands.

During the charcoal-grilling experience, exclamations of delight were heard at the vibrant "fluffy and springy" texture and the rich umami of the thick fish, unique to freshly grilled chikuwa. For lunch, participants enjoyed carefully prepared fish paste products along with kamameshi (rice cooked in a pot) featuring aburaage (fried tofu pouches) inspired by Toyokawa Inari. "My perspective on chikuwa has changed today," was a common sentiment, moving hearts once again by the depth of everyday food.


Now, leaving Toyohashi City in Aichi Prefecture, we head to "Enshu" in western Shizuoka. From here, we embark on a journey to visit "recommended spots" by Taro Muto, a colleague who runs "Kakegawa Ryori Muto" and co-produces "Tabemono Radio."

Visit ③ Osadaen (Shuchi District)

We visited "Osadaen," a tea wholesaler in Mori-machi. Natsumi Osada, the representative, holds the eighth dan in national tea tasting technique and has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award, making her a leading authority in the modern art of tea.

Here, we learned in detail about the manufacturing background of "Yamabuki Nadeshiko," a fermented tea brewed with our company's black koji mold. While many fermented teas like pu-erh tea often have a lactic acid-derived sourness, "Yamabuki Nadeshiko," imbued with the "citric acid" produced by black koji, possesses a delicate fruit-like sourness. A strict, unique manufacturing method, akin to brewing "tea koji," where only the desired mold is added to sterilized tea leaves, achieved this unique elegance.

The eyes of all who encountered this story, a story of Japanese inquisitiveness pursuing ideal flavors and elevating them with unique aesthetics, were filled with deep emotion. This emotion transformed into a desire to share this rare flavor, and before long, many people were seen holding multiple items, leading to a lively and cheerful atmosphere.

Visit ④ Shibachan Lunch Market (Kakegawa City)

Next, we headed to "Shibachan Lunch Market" in Kakegawa, run by Takeshi Shibata, affectionately known as "Shibachan," whom Muto introduced as a "recommended person."

Here, we witnessed Shibachan's extraordinary love for Jersey cows. Every cow is given a name, and meticulous cleanliness is maintained in their resting places. By preserving the time when cows feel happiest—lying down and ruminating—healthy internal fermentation is promoted. The cow's body, which transforms high molecular plant matter into rich milk that humans can enjoy, is, in a sense, nature's ultimate "bioplant." An environment filled with love was the source of that rich and pure flavor.

Afterward, the freshly squeezed milk and soft-serve ice cream we enjoyed at the store were truly the fruits of that love. With each bite of the rich, profound sweetness, smiles naturally spread across the faces of all participants. It was a refreshing moment where respect for life transcended into the joy of food.

Visit ⑤ Kiwi Fruit Country (Kakegawa City)

The final stop on the tour was "Kiwi Fruit Country," an experiential farm spread across the rich satoyama (rural landscape) of Kakegawa. We were guided by Masatoshi Hirano, the founder of Kiwi Fruit Country, who has long conveyed the charm of agriculture and nature in this area.

The vast farm, covering an area equivalent to several Tokyo Domes, cultivates over 80 varieties of kiwi collected from around the world. During the farm stroll, as we walked among kiwi vines spreading across trellises, we received detailed explanations about the cultivation background and the origins of this land. The history of Kiwi Fruit Country is said to have begun with "a teaspoon of kiwi seeds" brought back from America by the founder. These few seeds took root in this satoyama and, over many years, grew into the vast farm it is today.

After the stroll, we enjoyed a BBQ experience surrounded by the farm's nature. Eating under the open sky, enveloped by the air of the satoyama, offered a rich experience that transcended mere dining. The joy of food here arises from feeling the presence of fields and forests right beside you. It was a moment that allowed us to physically understand how food is part of nature's cycle.

—Thus, in the San-En area we visited, there are people who protect seed koji, artisans who knead fish, techniques that ferment tea, dairy farmers who raise cows, and farms that cultivate fruit, all quietly thriving with their own timelines. These seemingly disparate activities are all part of a single cultural continuum of "food," and also part of a larger cycle that extends from microorganisms to forests, and from agriculture to factories.

The San-En Gastronomy Tour was a journey not just to taste local delicacies, but to experience the "manufacturing" and "agricultural" sites behind them, and the philosophies embedded within. The techniques refined by human hands and the nature nurtured by the land over long periods. Through the resonance of both, the unique food culture of this region is shaped.

Food is not merely an object of consumption, but a story woven by land, people, and time. By touching upon the stories that breathe in the San-En region, we reaffirmed the preciousness of the endeavor to connect food culture to the future.

Click here for the event report of 2026/02/21 KOJI THE KITCHEN Academy Vol.6